DARKNESS OF LIGHT
Couture Collection Spring Summer 2021
“First you will come to the Sirens, who enchant
all who come near them”
Homer. Odyssey XII, 39-46
A journey into the fantastic world of the abysses of the sea, populated by mythological sirens who languish, seducing men who are in love, bewitching them and enchanting them. In the background: corals, anemones, and seahorses, as well as jellyfish and mysterious killer whales.
A dream in one of the most unexplored places on our planet, where incredible and wonderful creatures come out of the darkness of the depths, managing to amaze us with the incredible variety and ingenuity of nature.
Antonio Grimaldi chooses Rome to digitally present the new Couture Collection SS 21 and, in particular, the Acquario Romano, a 19th-century building with marine environment decorations hosting the presentation of 32 creations of his new high fashion collection.
Such collection, which is characterized by asymmetrical cuts, sculptural lines in motion that became the stylistic hallmark of the Maison, is divided into 3 main outfits: pantsuits, kaftans, and evening dresses.
The first, day, and afternoon suits, are outlined by structured jackets and basques that fall on soft and wide pants. Made of light wool crêpe texture, they feature cuts with raglan sleeves, leather inserts, and mega bows that turn into stoles or trains made of tulle point d’esprit.
The kaftans, inspired by Capri, an area identified in myths and history as the “island of the sirens”, are characterized by asymmetrical cuts and double fabrics (chiffon on the satin chain, otherwise known as “charmeuse”, and crêpe cady mixed with gazar) that give an optical effect capable of slimming the figure. To embellish them: metallic embroideries that look like giant pins adorning shoulders and neck.
The caban capes – which act as a stole and contribute to making the silhouette regal – are decorated with flaps containing gold-dipped chains.
While the evening dresses are characterized – like most of the outfits in the collection – by long tails and trainings that fall from the shoulder or sleeve, resembling fins of various shapes and sizes. The applications of shaded foils in aluminum, silver and hematite are quite remarkable. The embroideries, on the other hand, are handmade with crystals and give a watery effect, recalling seaweed, stinging curls or coral designs. Together: gold-plated crystal links.
Feathers, always dear to the Maison, are transformed into fins (maxi or mini size) and are shaded, painted, degraded, lacquered, or appear as big fringes.
The colors reflect the marine setting: from mother-of-pearl to black and abyssal blue, from aqua green to aquamarine, up to purple violet and lilac oyster that recall sea anemones.
Fabrics: cady, triple organza, light wool crêpe, chiffon, taffeta, tulle point d’esprit.
The rings – specifically designed by Marco De Luca, a designer artisan from Rome – appear as big fishbones, characterizing the collection.
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