Architecting the image of a new hero for spring summer 2023, London-based Permu is the brainchild of designer Heyun Pan and Jing Qian, the design duo that made their debut at Arab Fashion Week’s fall winter 2022/23 shows.
Conveyed with body-embracing leather looks and powerful, sartorial silhouettes, Permu embraces individuality of spirit that abides not by gender codes. From start to finish, looks were styled the image of an intrepid explorer navigating a dystopian-style universe, one that speaks to the intricate world of gaming and the sort of aspirational menswear fashions that emerge from it.
Dubbed Permu, which is derived from the word “permutation” (a mathematical term referring to a technique that determines the number of possible arrangements in a set), the brand unfurls a spring summer 2023 collection of looks that runs the gamut between club ensembles to emboldened occasion wear. Jackets are nuanced with laser cut slits, puffed sleeves, exaggerated power shoulder pads and backwards-facing blazers. Challenging preconceived style norms, a sense of movement is conveyed via patent leather shoes fashioned into futuristic shapes similar to nautical rudders or aerodynamic wings. Skin-tight, sleeveless tops and leisure bucket hats inject a dose of levity into the catwalk storytelling that took place on the runway of d3.
Backstage, Pan told journalists that the collection is deeply centered around an attempt to build structure within menswear, tailoring and and innovation at the same time.
The designer, who rose to fame when the label’s fall winter 2022 entitled Concealable Zone of renewable wool fabrics, went viral. Through Permu, he joins Qian, a recent Haute Couture grad, fresh out of the London College of fashion. In a display that demonstrates once again that “replacement and fusion of different fashion styles can lead to a reaction of fresh creativity within the fashion industry.”
Permu adds that its Asian production team focuses on innovative garment pattern cutting and infusing menswear with new sartorial technology. This spring summer 2023 season was no exception in terms of how their team used their sartorial savvy to construct a new vision of futurism, which deconstructs runway norms.